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Jewelry Glossary


Baguette
Bezel-setting
Blemish
Brilliance
Brilliant-cut
Briollette
Carat
Channel-setting
Clarity
Color
Comfort fit
Crown
Culet
Cushion-shaped
Cut
Depth
Diameter
Dispersion
Emerald-cut
Facet
Fancy shape
Feather
Finish
Fluorescence
Four C's
Girdle
Inclusion
Karat
Laser drill hole
Marquise shape
Nacre
Oval shape
Pave
Pavilion
Pear shape
Point
Polish
Rose Cut Diamond
Round-brilliant
Scintillation
Setting
Symmetry
Table
Trilliant
Weight Ratio
Learn more:
How to buy a diamond
The 4th C's

The name comes from the French word baguette, for "long rod".  Baguette shape came to the fore during the early 20th century Art Deco and Art Nouveau movements.

The straight, clean lines, and simple geometric form of the baguette cut, make it an ideal use as an accent stone.  The baguette cut shape comes in small weights, less than one carat.  Its smaller size makes its being measured by its dimensional size, rather than its carat weight.  The length to width ratio of this accent stone is ideally 1.5 is to 1. However, a baguette cut diamond should be of high quality, since its shape and cut can reveal more of its flaws.

Unlike round diamonds, the shape of the baguette allows them to be set side by side without gaps.  The effects of this unbroken display of diamonds in a channel setting create a beautiful display accent.

A bezel setting is a method of securing a stone onto a piece of jewelry.  The bezel setting is the oldest setting for gems, and it is amazing to consider that this setting has been in use for thousands of years.  A bezel setting consists simply of a band of metal wrapped around the stone to hold it in place.

It is one of the most secure possible settings for a stone, as it keeps the gem firmly in place without the risk of loss.  A bezel setting also protects the stone from nicks and dirt, and can be used in a wide variety of ways.

Brilliance is the measure of white light that enters and is then reflected back to the eye when a diamond is viewed table up.  This is a direct result of the diamond's cut.

Brilliance itself is implied in the word; the brilliant shine of light that a diamond is able to reflect and refract.  A high brilliance tends to be the objective of a diamond cutter, as a brilliant stone is often regarded as the most desirable of diamonds.

Essentially, light that passes through a diamond that is cut well will allow more of the light to come back out of the crown, from which it entered.

Any scratch, nick, abrasion, knot or any other flaw on the surface of a diamond.  This affects clarity. A blemish could be natural or be the result of polishing.

The most common brilliant cut is the round brilliant, consisting of 58 facets (including the culet), but there are also modified brilliant cuts resulting in different shapes.  It is a faceting style, designed to maximize brilliance.  Facets appear to radiate out from the center of the diamond.

Briolette is an elongated, pear-shaped gem covered with bands of triangular or rectangular facets, usually with a pointed end and without a girdle.  Also known as teardrop shape.

The modern unit for measuring the weight of gemstones.  For centuries the carob seed was the weight measurement for precious gems.  By the middle ages, however, changes in trade routes occurred, and large centers of trade were found within Europe.  The carat, as it had become known, earlier came close to 205 milligrams.  This measurement of weight lasted for the carat until the 20th century.  It was around 1910 that the carat was related to the metric system of weights.  By 1914, US adopted the current metric carat measurement of 200 milligrams.

This is grooved metal built into a jewelry setting for holding gemstones.  A number of uniformly sized small gems are set in a row.  Unlike most setting methods, these stones are not secured individually, so there is no metal visible between the stones.  Most popular for wedding and anniversary bands.

Clarity is one of the 4th C's in evaluating gems.  In diamonds; it is the measure of a diamond's light properties.  It is graded on a scale of "FL" (Flawless) to "I" (Imperfect).  Clarity grade is determined by the inclusions and blemishes seen in the diamond with a 10X loupe.

One of the 4th C's and a measure of the level of color seen within a gemstone.  The GIA color grading system of "D" (or colorless) to "Z" grades color according to a diamond's light absorption and the amount of elements present within a given diamond.  In gemstones, this is usually broken up into hue, tone and saturation.

A term used for rings, and how the wearer prefers they fit on the finger.

Comfort fit bands are designed with a rounded inside so they slide on easily and rest on your finger more comfortably.  There are degrees of comfort fit, as well.  Light comfort fit is very slightly rounded on the inside whereas heavy comfort fit is a very thick band and then the regular comfort fit is somewhere in between.  Generally for people who are not used to wearing rings, which makes them especially popular among men.

Conflict diamonds, also known as blood diamonds, are diamonds that originated in areas where there was violent conflict and civil war.  These diamonds are sold in a covert manner, in order to purchase weapons for the conflict.  African nations most noted for blood diamonds are Sierra Leone, Angola, Congo and Liberia.  In the past, diamonds formed an easy means of income for warlords to continue with terror and exploitation.  With awareness, the steady stream of conflict diamonds has been reduced to a trickle of its former self.  The diamond industry has done much to staunch the flow of blood diamonds out of Africa by aiding the instituting of the stop-gap measures.  This ongoing enterprise is known as the Kimberley Process.

The upper part of a cut gemstone, above the girdle.

A small, octagonal facet sometimes added to the bottom of a diamond's pavilion to protect the tip from being damaged.  Basically a flat face on the bottom of a gemstone.  It derives from the Latin word for bottom, culus.  The purpose is to protect the integrity of the gemstone

The cushion cut is an antique cut that often resembles a cross between the Old Mine Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut.  This shape is also sometimes referred to as the pillow cut.  This cut is not as fiery or brilliant as most of the new cuts, but it has a romantic and classic look and stands apart from round brilliants.  Due to the large open facets of the cushion cut, one should opt for the highest clarity and color the budget affords.

Cut

A basic consideration in a gemstone.  Considered by many to be the most important of the 4th C's, this is the greatest determinant in a gem's light qualities.  The cut of a gem results of cutting the raw, rough mineral or stone into the polished, shining gemstone.

A diamond's height, from the culet to the table, measured in millimeters.

A gems depth percentage is a measure of the gem's depth divided by the average width, or diameter, at the girdle.

The width of the diamond, measured through the girdle.

A property, peculiar to crystals, of reflecting light in two different colors when viewed from two different directions.

Also known as a diamond's "fire", the flashes of color caused by the breakup of white light into spectral colors (such as red, blue and green) as it hits a diamond's surface.

A rectangular or square shaped cut with truncated corners and stepped facets, typically parallel to the girdle.  An emerald cut is often referred to as 'Step cut' or 'Table cut'. The facets on a 'Step cut' or 'Table cut' are cut in steps, parallel to the edges.  The facets usually span the length or width of the stone; with the facets gradually decreasing as they approach the table and culet.  The four corners of an emerald cut stone are softened to protect the stone, as any sharp points are vulnerable to getting chipped.  The style is highly effective in colored stones, the light being better reflected, and the play of color intensified.

See Treatment

The smooth, flat, polished surfaces on a diamond, allowing light to enter and reflect off at different angles.

Fancy diamond refers to a strong color property of a diamond.  A diamond that has a distinctive color, such as red, blue, yellow or any other is called a Fancy Diamond.

All colored sapphires, other than blue are called fancy sapphires.

There are numerous shapes that modern technology and cutting mechanics design, including the heart, marquise, and trillion.  All non-round diamond shapes are called fancy cut.  Most people nowadays prefer alternative shapes, such as emerald, princess, radiant, and asscher, and others.

Any small fractures below a gemstone's surface, which look either transparent or light white under magnification.

All aspects of a diamond's appearance those are due to the diamond cutter's skill - including polish, girdle quality and faceting precision.

The effect of ultraviolet (UV) light on atoms that are found within diamonds.  Atoms within the crystalline structure of the diamond emit a glowing and bluish light under a UV-rich light.  This has little to no discerible effect on the diamond's light display.

A fracture is a break in the diamond's crystal matrix.  It occurs when a break occurs that goes against a diamond's natural cleavage plane.

The factors that determine a diamond's overall quality: cut, clarity, color and carat weight.  See diamond buying guide.

The narrow outline that separates the top (crown) and bottom (pavilion) sections of a diamond, which is measured in terms of thickness.

A flaw that is found within a gemstone.  This can be a break, feather, included crystal or any imperfection. Inclusions are fingerprints for a gemstone, as no two gems have identical inclusions.

The unit to measure gold purity. 100% gold, for example, is 24 karat, while 75% gold is 18 karat.

A permanent diamond enhancement process in which a strong acid solution is forced into a laser-drilled hole so dark inclusions can be bleached and the diamond's appearance improved.

Marquise shape is a long and elongated shape with tapering points on both ends.  This popular shape has its origin from France during the reign of King Louis XIV.  The shape maximizes carat weight and gives a larger looking stone.  It has a bow-tie effect.

A shiny, iridescent substance secreted by a mollusk in response to a foreign substance such as a grain of sand or an inserted bead.  Layers of nacre form a pearl.  Better known as mother-of-pearl, this is a crystalline substance that creates the iridescent effect attributed to pearls.  It is a strong material that is lightweight and transparent, allowing light to pass through its surface, creating a glow on the pearl's surface.

An oval shape stone has marked brilliance.  The shape has significant elongation with no tapered or sharp points.  It is generally a shape with two radii.  The dimension of oval shape is measured on length-to-width ratio.

A pear shape is a metaphorical term that refers to the shape of a pear.  It has tapered top and round bottom.  A clear pear shape stone gives a bow-tie effect. Also called teardrop, pear shape is much demanded in diamonds.

A group of tiny, fully-faceted stones are set tightly together with no metal showing through - so the piece looks like it is completely covered with diamonds.  (Pronounced PAH-VEY) Comes from French for "to pave".  The pave setting is often used to create the look of a field of gemstones or diamonds.

The portion of the diamond below the girdle.

One of the most common inclusions, a pinpoint is a white spot that occurs within the diamond during its formation.  These are tiny crystalline growths.

The term point indicates diamond measurements that are lower than one carat.  The carat is divided into 100 points, so '50 points' is another way of saying 'half-carat' or 0.50 carats.

The finished polish on a diamond's surface or facets.  The facets must have a good polish, free from cutting and grinding marks, so as to most effectively reflect and refract light that passes over and through the diamond.

A style used from the 16th century where the diamond has a flat base and triangular facets that rise to form a dome.

The most popular diamond shape, based on 57 or 58 facets.

A diamond's "sparkle" - the flashes of light reflected from a diamond's facets when the diamond is moved.

The metal mounting holding a polished gemstone.

It implies the placement of a diamond's facets.  The facets should all be the proper size in relation to one another, and the right number.  Good symmetry provides a dazzling light display that we call "scintillation".

The large, flat facet on the top of a diamond.

It is a norm in the gem industry for gemstones to undergo treatment.  Records as far back as 50 AD testify such processes.  Most prevalent is the heat treatment, which enhances the appearance of a gem.  That is why they are also called enhancements.  Treatments nowadays are of a permanent nature and untreated gems are a parody of what we have come to know as gems.

A triangular , fancy shape of a gemstone.  A modern cut of gems, the Trillion cut (triangular brilliant) is famous for its scintillation and remarkable shape.  The brilliance of the Trillion is due to the fact that it is developed out of the square shaped "radiant" diamond.  The cutting of the radiant into a triangular shape was a technique first used in 1980s.  The Trillion cut has a length to width ratio of 1 is to 1, as it must be cut to form an equilateral triangle; sharp cornered or slightly rounded cornered.  Normally cut with 44 facets, it has the capability of producing a brilliant scintillation.  Trillion can be used as a centerpiece itself.

A comparison of a diamond's weight in relation to its diameter.
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