Gemstone Education
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Bezel Setting: Everything You Need To Know

By:  J. Sidral

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In our day-to-day active lifestyle, we have to take upon numerous roles, and among all the things we handle, taking care of fine jewelry can get lost in the mix. But hey, what if we were to tell you, there is one way to protect the precious gem on your favorite jewelry? It is simple. Opt for a bezel setting.

You might wonder, what is so different about this one? Well, the bezel setting is the most protective and durable setting for your diamond or colored gemstone. It has a modern and sleek appearance, although it is known to be one of the oldest setting styles in history. But, there’s a lot more to it, and if you are already hooked, let us acquaint you with this setting…

What Is A Bezel Setting?

When the diamond or the gemstone is surrounded by an arc of a thin metal rim, it is called a bezel setting. It forms a metal collar around the gem and holds it in place. This setting is not just practical but also adds a certain elegance to the jewelry piece.

Different Types of Bezel Settings:

1. Full Bezel Setting

As the name suggests, in a full bezel setting the metal rim surrounds the circumference of the stone. The rim is slightly bent inward to secure the stone in place and provide maximum protection to the edges.

2. Partial Bezel Setting

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In a partial bezel setting, the metal rim partially encircles the stone, leaving some areas exposed. This setting style is also quite secure and also allows light to pass through the gemstone, resulting in more fire and brilliance.

3. Decorative Bezel Setting

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Design elements like intricate milgrain or bold beading details along the bezel setting lend a subtle hint of exquisiteness to the jewel.

Pros and Cons of the Bezel Setting

The Advantages:

  1. Without any debate, the bezel setting is the most protective setting out of all. Marquise, pear, and princess-cut diamonds have sharp edges, which are best protected by a bezel setting. For soft gemstones like peridots, turquoise, moonstone and opals, bezel setting is ideal.
  2. For people with an active lifestyle, the bezel setting is a practical option as it protects the gemstone from chipping and breaking. It also eliminates the risk of dislodging and loosening of the gem. Also due to its shape, the bezel setting doesn’t snag on clothing, loose threads or hair.
  3. With a bezel setting, it is easy for the setter to hide inclusions on the sides of the gemstones, which is another added advantage.
  4. Due to its simple design, a bezel-set gemstone ring is easier to clean and maintain. You don’t have to go ring-less every time you do some hands-on work.

The Disadvantages:

  1. As a bezel setting has a rim of metal around the edges, it can make the stone look slightly smaller in size. If this is a concern for you, look for a bezel setting that is raised high against the shank, to make a center stone look prominent.
  2. It can reduce the light passing through the gemstone, which makes it look less brilliant.
  3. Bezel-set jewelry is expensive due to the greater amount of metal used to craft it. The labor required to create bezel settings for each gem is more than other settings, which adds to the price of the jewelry, making it even more expensive.

Bezel Setting vs Other Settings

  1. Bezel vs Channel: Channel setting works well with smaller gemstones as it makes a beautiful linear row between the channel walls. But, it doesn’t necessarily highlight the center gemstone as a bezel setting does. Both bezel and channel settings are secured setting options and don’t snag on clothes.
  2. Bezel vs Flush: The key difference between the bezel and flush setting is that the flush setting doesn’t highlight the center gemstone as much as the bezel setting does. This is because the flush-set gems are fitted into the metal band and they can’t be lifted. Whereas, a bezel setting allows the gems to have some prominence as they can be lifted a bit lower or higher on the band. Also, the bezel setting is more popular as it can be incorporated into a variety of designs. Talking of the fire and brilliance of the gem, it is limited in both settings. But bezel as well as flush settings hold up well in a busy, hands-on workplace.
  3. Bezel vs Prong: While prong or claw settings tend to snag on woolens, fabric, hair and gloves, bezel setting does not. However, a diamond or a gemstone in a bezel setting doesn’t show the same brilliance as it does in a prong setting. Neither is the bezel setting as versatile as a prong setting when it comes to designs and patterns of jewelry. On the other hand, the metal rim or the bezel around the stone does keep it secured and there is no risk of falling out, unlike a prong setting.

In Conclusion

In the end, every setting comes with its own advantages and disadvantages, but what matters is your personal preference and your lifestyle. As the practical benefits of a bezel setting can certainly outweigh other settings, it’s only natural to get swayed. So, go ahead and explore a variety of bezel-set pieces at Angara and you will surely find something priceless.

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